True to English watchmaking heritage, Arnold & Son unveils
the TBTE Tourbillon, featuring the hand-finished A&S8503
calibre with True Beat Seconds complication. This defining
timepiece is part of the Royal Collection which combines classic
styling with leading-edge technology.
The tourbillon movement, one of the most elegant complications
in the world of horology, has played a crucial role in Arnold &
Son's history. An exceptional watchmaker, John Arnold was an active
participant in one of the most extraordinary partnerships in the
world of innovative horology. Indeed, both he and A.-L. Breguet
worked closely, sharing both their knowledge and passion. Evidence
of their partnership is A.-L. Breguet's first ever tourbillon
mounted in John Arnold's No. 11 movement, a watch that can be found
today in London's British Museum.
The TBTE not only boasts a tourbillon but also a true beat
seconds mechanism. The true beat seconds is a traditional
complication of Arnold & Son, a complication that alludes to
the precision timekeeping required for navigation at sea. Unlike
conventional mechanical watches, a true beat seconds movement
measures out time in complete seconds rather than fractions
dependent on the balance frequency. This watch thus pays tribute to
the watches produced by John Arnold and his son, when they were the
first to develop marine chronometers that could be produced in
quantity at reasonable prices. Those technically superior, widely
distributed chronometers reflected Arnold & Son's commitment to
exceptional precision and solved the problem of determining
longitude at sea.
Upholding that legacy, Arnold & Son's master watchmakers and
engineers thrive on creating new complicated movements for
exquisite timepieces. Such is the case with the TBTE watch, a truly
innovative, technical and architectural achievement. While the true
beat seconds are displayed by a large central hand on the dial
side, the mechanism itself is located in all its beauty on the
reverse of the movement. Thus, having the tourbillon located dial
side, the movement has an intriguing complication to admire on each
side. Making the true beat seconds complication even more alluring
is the fact that the true beat seconds bridge is shaped like a
Celtic battle axe and the lever like an anchor - paying homage to
Arnold's maritime achievements.
Aesthetically what sets Arnold & Son's new TBTE Tourbillon
apart is its modern take on the distinguished "English" movement
design: The main pivoting elements in the movement are mounted on
their own bridge. The tourbillon and motion-work bridges are
classically triangular but are skeletonised. The combination of
multilevel bridges and open-worked main plate gives an incredible
depth and three-dimensional effect to the watch and thus a modern
look. The unique Arnold & Son design is also reflected by the
three-spoke wheels. This same three-spoke design can also be found
in the tourbillon cage and the openings in the main plate. The
decoration of the main plate is a reminiscence of an
oldguillochépattern found on the cases of antique Arnold & Son
pocket watches. The main plate is also skeletonised around the
barrel and the tourbillon carriage allowing to look through the
movement and therefore through the watch itself.
When compared to more conventional tourbillons found today, the
TBTE model is said to be "inverted", that is to say most technical
elements and visually interesting features are shown on the dial
side, when those would normally be hidden on the reverse of the
dial. Other typically English technical idiosyncrasies will seduce
even the most demanding watch connoisseurs. Take, for instance, the
solid gold chatons or the symmetrical layout of the movement; to
achieve such a feat requires overcoming a number of technical
challenges. Thus the barrel spring and the tourbillon cage are
centred along the watch's longitudinal axis. When examining the
gear train and the winding system, one notes the traditional
construction used in high-end pocket watches that involves the use
of "wolf-teeth", an asymmetrical tooth system featuring curved
teeth used primarily to improve the smoothness of the overall
movement and to enhance its elegant design.
It goes without saying that every finishing touch on this
striking piece, with such movement decoration as hand-chamfered
bridges and, even more demanding, hand-chamfered wheels with
polished edges has been done by hand by Arnold & Son's master
watchmakers, hence bringing more brilliance and depth to each
decorative element.
This unique timepiece will be produced in a limited edition of
28 pieces, in a 44 mm 18-carat red gold case.